With Christmas approaching, everything is about turkey – but LeCoq in Islington shows how a restaurant dedicated to chicken can trump it all year round, as Sarah White reviews the St Paul’s Road favourite
December in London is a month mainly associated with just one thing and all that comes with it; shopping, eating and of course lots and lots of drinking. With Christmas around the corner you may already be feeling as stuffed as a turkey with the winter reserves well and truly in place. If, like me, you are acutely aware of the cold, dark nights drawing in and a Caesar salad is no longer cutting the mustard, then fear not – heartier fare is aplenty at neighbourhood rotisserie LeCoq, as I found when reviewing this Islington restaurant.
As the name suggests, LeCoq is all about chicken. Their seasonal set menu changes weekly and diners can choose between two courses for £17 or three for £22, offering fantastic value for money and a constant variety and assurance of freshness.
The evening I visited we were treated to the rotisserie Sutton Hoo chicken with roasted squash and zhug, a refreshingly simple yet delicious combination of roast chicken with sweet flavourful squash and a Middle Eastern hot sauce. A perfect example of how often less is more – I loved the lack of fuss at LeCoq.
In the name of research and our winter reserves we also tried the rabbit ragu with grilled polenta, and the braised ciccoria with lemon and parmesan. The rabbit was truly exceptional, a perfect winter warmer to enjoy with a glass of full bodied red wine, of which LeCoq has in spades.
LeCoq has the perfect neighbourhood ambience, with low lighting, a fun contemporary design and friendly staff, it’s a welcome escape from the grey drizzle of winter. For larger groups there is also a super sexy downstairs private dining room, complete with a glitter ball cushioned alcove, perfect for a party season soiree – just in case you haven’t quite had enough of Christmas just yet.
292-294 St Paul’s Road N1 2LH; 020 7359 5055; le-coq.co.uk