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RESTAURANT REVIEW: DRAKE & MORGAN, KING’S CROSS

A recent addition to the King’s Cross food and drink scene, Drake & Morgan is keeping the quality sky high

You know what’s to come when you struggle to finish off a bread board. That’s exactly what happened with my guest and I when visiting the latest addition to the burgeoning foodie scene of King’s Cross, Drake & Morgan. We are faced with a smorgasboard of bread, from sourdough to nutty wholegrain, with a tantalising dip that added to its addictive nature.

The size doesn’t come as a surprise when we take in our surroundings. You sense this is an important launch for Drake & Morgan, being their first venture to use their actual company name, rather than the likes of The Anthologist, The Folly and The Parlour. Two beautiful floors, downstairs is the bar area, all elegant booths and large circular bar, whereas upstairs it’s all about dining with an open kitchen, deli, lounge, ‘kitchen pods’, private dining room and outdoor terrace.

Restaurant Review: Drake & Morgan, King's Cross

The ample menu features Sea, Air and Land choices

Here you will find a menu focused around small plates (clearly not the bread), the grill and larger comfort dishes. There was certainly something rather comforting as we shared crab fritters to start, crispy on the outside (we’ve often encountered other pretenders smothered in gloppy batter) with lovely flaky crab meat inside.

After quite some deliberation over the Sea, Air and Land main offerings on the menu, plus a great choice of burgers too, my guest went for seabass and I picked the pork belly. The former was generous, and there was an added twist with ‘cowboy’ fries on the side (covered in honey, chilli and garlic), which packed a real punch. I had the rather more conventional sweet potato fries with my pork belly, which was undeniably a good cut, although I found the glaze a little too sickly for my taste (and the accompanying barbecued peach was a strange companion).

Drake & Morgan looks perfect for all-comers, with something for any occasion. Since eating there I have revisited for a night out, which was a lot of fun and the platters we ordered to eat were great – but we opted against the bread on this occasion. King’s Cross has yet another winner on its hands.

WORDS Mark Kebble

6 Pancras Square N1C 4AG; 0845 468 0107; drakeandmorgan.co.uk/kings-cross

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