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RESTAURANT REVIEW: FENCHURCH SEAFOOD BAR & GRILL AT SKY GARDEN

Of all the days to enjoy an evening at the top of London’s Walkie Talkie building, a dark, damp and foggy night in October isn’t exactly ideal. But it would be foolish to let the British weather get in the way of a visit here. After setting foot in the Sky Garden, it soon becomes clear there’s more to this Fenchurch Street skyscraper than the view.

The Sky Garden itself is stunning to look at, plus there are three restaurants; Sky Pod Bar, Darwin Brasserie and Fenchurch Seafood Bar & Grill, located on the 37th floor. From cocktails to fine dining, this unique public space is definitely geared up for eating and drinking, with menus and prices dependent on which of the three you choose. 

Fenchurch is the most premium restaurant and is run by food group Rhubarb. The cuisine is simply described as ‘contemporary’ with dishes devised by head chef Zac Whittle, who has previously worked at Conrad and Galvin. I was there to sample the ‘Tasting at the Top’ menu and after six courses of seasonal British food, I had forgotten all about the lack of visibility 37 floors up. 

The tasting menu changes throughout the year, but the autumn dishes I was offered were exceptional and the line-up was well though out. A refreshing chopped mackerel starter was followed by a small but hearty game bolognese and a light, cleansing turbot broth. Lamb done three ways was next and for me, this was the highlight of the meal. It was rich but comforting and went beautifully with a glass of the Camins del Priorat, a 2013 Spanish red. 

As is often the case with tasting menus, the idea of dessert wasn’t exactly tempting four courses in. But after a short pause (and a chance to catch up on the paired wines) I was given two. The first was a fruity and tropical coconut cream served with lime granite. A peanut and chocolate bar with yoghurt ice cream was served to finish and it was as delicious as it sounds. 

It’s not exactly your everyday dining experience, but that’s the joy of the Fenchurch restaurant. A trip to the Sky Garden is a must in the capital. And if you want to make the visit extra special? Book a table here.

The tasting menu is priced at £70 per person or £109 with paired wines; the vegetarian tasting
menu is priced at £50 per person or £89 with paired wines. 20 Fenchurch Street EC3M 3BY, skygarden.london

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