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Restaurant Review: Kutir, Chelsea

There’s no stopping Chef Rohit Ghai, who has recently launched Kutir in Chelsea for discerning foodies, as well as Koolcha, a casual dining venture at Boxpark Wembley. So how does the former compare to his Michelin starred offerings, Trishna and Jamavar?

Words: Alexander Larman
Lead image: Tim Atkins

When Mayfair’s Jamavar opened in early 2017, we loved it. Indeed, our review said ‘I can’t imagine that I will have many dinners this purely and simply enjoyable any time soon’.

So expectations were high for chef Rohit Ghai’s move to new premises in Chelsea, in the form of Kutir, on the former site of the estimable Vineet Bhatia. It’s a slightly different offering; prices are lower, the atmosphere quieter.

It’s less a place that hedge fund types flash wallets, more somewhere that discerning foodies flock to. But will they be doing so?

On the evidence of our (albeit very early) visit, the answer is a definite yes. The menu reprises many of Ghai’s greatest hits from previous incarnations at Trishna (which got a Michelin star) and Jamavar (Michelin again), so it’s reasonable to assume that the men with the white stars might well be heading to this quiet side street.

But they will be thoroughly satisfied by dishes like the tandoori stone bass with squid, the tandoori chicken chops or the mighty, melt-in-the-mouth 24-hour cooked lamb rogan josh. It is cooking of enormous precision, and accomplishment.

It makes you want to eat a great deal more of it, until you put your knife and fork down and say, with an apologetic smile, ‘I’m afraid I’ve had enough’

It makes you want to eat a great deal more of it, until you put your knife and fork down and say, with an apologetic smile, ‘I’m afraid I’ve had enough’.

That wasn’t a problem on our visit, thankfully, and the chocolate and banana dessert was an especially wonderful finish. The wine’s great too, including a crisp Gruner Veltliner and a spicy Pinot Noir.

Subcontinental Indian cuisine has developed and grown as an art in London dining over the past decade in a way that virtually nothing else has, and chef Ghai and his more-than-capable team (the service is fantastic) ensure that visitors to Kutir will have just as memorable an experience as his old clients at Jamavar did.

Which is, frankly, worth celebrating.

10 Lincoln Street, Chelsea SW3 2TS; kutir.co.uk



 

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