The Brackenbury’s Renaissance is happening and it is right up every west Londoners’ street – it’s a true neighbourhood charmer
In terms of local neighbourhood restaurants, The Brackenbury is one of those firm favourites that has a soft spot in many a local’s heart. But if truth be told, since its heyday in the mid-nineties, it somehow lost some of its mojo.
After an underwhelming reopening in 2014, one of the partners, Head Chef Humphrey Fletcher, has now taken over the reins as sole Chef Patron and he wants to give The Brackenbury back its buzz. Something that he is certainly achieving, it has to be said. The Brackenbury buzz is back.
Arriving to the quaint restaurant on a warm evening, it was so lovely to be given the opportunity to eat out on the pavement. Relaxing into a Mediterranean-style, red-wine fueled haze, my friend Charley and I couldn’t help but beam at our surroundings and the wonderful waiter helped in making us completely relax. What more could you want from your local restaurant?
To add to the Parisian pavement style of the restaurant, the floors are stripped wood and the walls are filled with black and white images
The full refurbishment of the restaurant means that it has been made cosier, by completely changing the layout and bringing the bar to the front to create a welcoming atmosphere. To add to the Parisian pavement style of the restaurant, the floors are stripped wood and the walls are filled with black and white images. There is also a sweet garden room at the back, filled with plants and perfect for those who love natural lighting.
The food is uncomplicated and focused on good sourcing practices (as a country girl, this is always a big tick in the box for me), as Fletcher has a good knowledge and fascination of ingredients from his high-flying career. Our starter of courgette, mint and whipped ricotta salad was the perfect antidote to the warm alfresco eating, and had a beautiful balance of flavours.
My main of braised pork cheeks in thyme & marsala, risotto bianco was simply divine. I can honestly say that I’ve never had a risotto like it and definitely never so perfectly cooked, and the meat was perfectly tender and fell apart as you ate. Similarly, Charley went for the rib-eye steak, which was cooked perfectly and served with the right amount of accompaniment.
After a rather amusing conversation with the waiter about pronunciation, it soon transpired that I just had to give the chocolate paris-brest a try. For someone who doesn’t usually have a sweet tooth, I did a very good job of seeing it off. For those who love profiteroles or anything equally chocolate-filled – this one is one for you.
Open for lunch and dinner, the menu has been carefully crafted to provide good value as well as top ingredients, and there’s even complimentary still and sparkling water. This is a restaurant that gives you an abundance of options.
There’s scope for simply popping in for a quick glass of wine alfresco, to enjoying a full-blown three-course dinner with all the trimmings. So, whatever the excuse – get yourself down to The Brackenbury and see what it’s all about.
£90 for two with a bottle of wine
Celebrating, socialising or popping down for a more intimate dinner. The space allows for all options
What to eat…
The risotto – it’s to die for
What to know…
You can just pop in for a glass of wine and some nibbles, it’s not only a restaurant