Each year, the Fortnum & Mason Food and Drink Awards champion the very best of British food and drink writing, publishing, broadcasting and photography. Here, culinary forces and award winners Sami Tamimi and Tara Wigley, Calum Franklin and Cas Oh share recipes from their prize-winning books. Bon appetite and cheers…
Photo: Falastin: A Cookbook, published by Ebury Press
Chicken musakhan from Cookery Book Winner Falastin: A Cookbook by Sami Tamimi and Tara Wigley, published by Ebury Press
Ottolenghi: The Cookbook, Jerusalem and Ottolenghi Simple co-authors Sami Tamimi (also co-founder of Ottolenghi) and Tara Wigley come together again to create Falastin, a celebration of the recipes, stories and people of Palestinian – Sami’s homeland.
With wanderlust-inspiring photography and dishes from Bethlehem, East Jerusalem, Galilee and the West Bank, the book takes the home cook through regional styles through a mix of traditional and contemporary meals.
Some of these recipes have been handed down generation to generation, and many of them have been reworked or evolved in the Ottolenghi test kitchen, with that trademark Ottolenghi flair.
FALASTIN: A COOKBOOK by Sami Tamimi and Tara Wigley, photography by Jenny Zarins, Ebury Press, £27.
Musakhan is the hugely popular national dish of Palestine: growing up, Sami ate it once a week, pulling a piece of chicken and sandwiching it between a piece of pita or flatbread. It’s a dish to eat with your hands and with your friends, served from one pot or plate, for everyone to then tear at some of the
bread and spoon over the chicken and topping for themselves.
Traditionally, musakhan was made around the olive oil pressing season in October or November to celebrate (and gauge the quality of) the freshly pressed oil. The taboon bread would be cooked in a hot taboon oven (see page 341) lined with smooth round stones, to create small craters in the bread in which the meat juices, onion and olive oil all happily pool. It’s cooked year round nowadays, layered with shop-bought taboon or pita bread, and is a dish to suit all occasions: easy and comforting enough to be the perfect weeknight supper as it is, but also special enough to stand alongside other dishes at a feast.
- Prep Time approx 20 minutes
- Cook Time approx 60 minutes
- Total Time 1 hour, 5 minutes
- Serves four people
Ingredients1 chicken (about 1.7kg), divided into 4 pieces (1.4kg) or 1kg
chicken supremes (between 4 and 6, depending on size), skin on, if you prefer 120ml olive oil, plus 2–3 tbsp extra, to finish
1 tbsp ground cumin
3 tbsp sumac
½ tsp ground cinnamon
½ tsp ground allspice
30g pine nuts
3 large red onions, thinly sliced
2–3mm thick (500g)
4 taboon breads (see headnote),or any flatbread (such as Arabic
flatbread or naan bread) (330g)
5g parsley leaves, roughly chopped
Salt and black pepper
300g Greek-style yoghurt
1 lemon, quartered
Place the chicken in a large mixing bowl with 2 tablespoons of oil, 1 teaspoon of cumin, 1½ teaspoons of sumac, the cinnamon, allspice, 1 teaspoon of salt and a good grind of black pepper.
Mix well to combine, then spread out on a parchment-lined baking tray.
Roast until the chicken is cooked through. This will take about 30 minutes if starting with supremes and up to 45 minutes if
starting with the whole chicken, quartered.
Remove from the oven and set aside. Don’t discard any juices which have collected in the tray.
Meanwhile, put 2 tablespoons of oil into a large sauté pan, about 24cm, and place on a medium heat.
Add the pine nuts and cook for about 2–3 minutes, stirring constantly, until the nuts are golden brown.
Transfer to a bowl lined with kitchen paper (leaving the oil behind in the pan) and set aside.
Add the remaining 60ml of oil to the pan, along with the onions and ¾ teaspoon of salt.
Return to a medium heat for about 15 minutes, stirring from time to time, until the onions are completely soft and pale golden but not caramelised.
Add 2 tablespoons of sumac, the remaining 2 teaspoons of cumin and a grind of black pepper and mix through, until the onions are completely coated. Remove from the heat and set aside.
When ready to assemble the dish, set the oven to a grill setting and slice or tear the bread into quarters or sixths.
Place them under the grill for about 2–3 minutes, to crisp up, then arrange them on a large platter.
Top the bread with half the onions, followed by all the chicken and any chicken juices left in the tray.
Either keep each piece of chicken as it is or else roughly shred it as you plate up, into two or three large chunks.
Spoon the remaining onions over the top and sprinkle with the pine nuts, parsley, 1½ teaspoons of sumac and a final drizzle of olive oil.
Serve at once, with the yoghurt and a wedge of lemon alongside.
Red onion, carrot and hazelnut tatin from Debut Cookery Book winner The Pie Room by Calum Franklin, published by Bloomsbury Absolute
Executive head chef at Holborn Dining Room’s Pie Room Calum Franklin showcases pastry encrusted goodness with his book, The Pie Room.
It includes 80 achievable sweet and savory pies, from sausage rolls, beef Wellington to rhubarb and custard tarts, as well as tips on how to nail making your own pasty at home.
The Pie Room: 80 achievable and show-stopping pies and sides for pie lovers everywhere by Calum Franklin, Photography by John Carey, published by Bloomsbury Absolute, £26.
Red Onion, Carrot & Hazelnut Tatin
A pretty meal of balanced flavours, with the tarragon lifting the earthiness of the carrots and onion and the balsamic providing a little acidity to counteract the sweetness. This tarte tatin can be served for either lunch or dinner. If you have a lot of people coming around, it also makes a knockout vegetarian side dish for a banquet. Be really quite careful flipping over the pan at the end of the cooking – remember to use a cloth on the handle as it will have just come out of the oven.
- Prep Time approx 20 minutes
- Cook Time approx 50 minutes
- Total Time 1 hour 10 minutes
- Serves 2-3 people
Ingredients3 red onions
4 large carrots, peeled and cut into 3cm chunks
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
½ teaspoon fine table salt
30g whole blanched hazelnuts
15g caster sugar
2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar
150g rough puff pastry (or shop-bought puff pastry)
10g tarragon, leaves picked and placed in iced water
Peel the onions and cut them in half through the roots so they stay intact, then cut each half through the root again into four wedges.
Place the carrot chunks and onion wedges in a large roasting tray, toss with the vegetable oil and salt then spread over the base of the tray.
Place the tray in the preheated oven and roast the vegetables for 30 minutes or until they start to colour. Add the hazelnuts to the tray and roast for a further 5 minutes.
In a heavy ovenproof frying pan, warm the butter, sugar and balsamic vinegar until the sugar has dissolved. Bring the mixture to the boil and continue cooking until it has thickened enough to coat the back of a spoon.
Add the roasted vegetables and nuts to the pan, toss well in the mixture and set aside to cool for 10 minutes.
On a lightly floured surface, roll out the pastry dough into a 1cm thick circle large enough to cover the frying pan.
Bunch the vegetables and nuts together so there is a 2cm gap around the edge of the pan and then cover with the pastry, tucking it slightly under around the edge. Prick the pastry all over with a fork.
Place the frying pan in the hot oven and bake the tarte tatin for 20 minutes or until the pastry is puffed up and golden.
Taking care to protect your hands with a heatproof cloth as the handle will be very hot, remove the pan from the oven. Place a large flat plate over the top of the pan and then quickly flip it over.
Dress the top of the tarte tatin with the iced tarragon leaves and serve while warm.
The Hammer of God, from Debut Drink Book winner CO SPECS: Recipes & Histories of Classic Cocktails by Cas Oh, published by Cazerac Publishing
Cas Oh’s book is an indispensable A-Z guide to classic cocktails for bartenders and home enthusiasts which took five years to create.
The London bartender, who spent a decade behind the bar at The Club at The Ivy, wades through the endless variations of cocktails out there, to focus on 200 tipples.
It’s a collection of recipes he has tested and reworked and tested and reworked again to get the best tasting drink that is the most historically accurate as well.
For the die-hard cocktails makers who like to argue the toss about the correct way to make a drink, his recipes are backed by research and reasoning into methodology and trivia about drink origins.
CO SPECS: Recipes & Histories of Classic Cocktails by Cas Oh, published by Cazerac Publishing, £19.99.
The Hammer of God
A fortified beer cocktail invented in 2012 which pairs Innis & Gunn Original beer (aged in whiskey barrels with vanilla and toffee notes) with blended scotch, balanced with lemon and cinnamon syrup.
- Serves 1 person
- Yields 1 cocktail
Ingredients50ml Johnnie Walker Black
20ml Lemon Juice
15ml Monin Cinnamon Syrup
Innis & Gunn Original Barrel Aged Scotch Ale, to top
Shake the whisky, lemon and cinnamon syrup and pour straight into a mug (don't fine strain) to create a frothy head.
Read on for the full list of Fortnum & Mason Food and Drink Awards 2021 winners and shortlisted entrants.
Winner: English Pastoral: An Inheritance by James Rebanks, published by Allen Lane, Penguin Random House
Shortlist: Red Sands: Reportage and Recipes Through Central Asia, from Hinterland to Heartland by Caroline Eden, published by Quadrille Publishing Ltd
Shortlist:Loaf Story: A love-letter to bread, with recipes by Tim Hayward, published by Quadrille Publishing Ltd
Debut Food Book
Winner: Hungry by Grace Dent, published by Mudlark, Harper Collins
Shortlist: Borough Market: Edible Histories by Mark Riddaway, published by Hodder & Stoughton
Shortlist: The Food Almanac: Recipes and Stories for a Year at the Table by Miranda York, published by Pavilion Books
Winner: Falastin: A Cookbook by Sami Tamimi and Tara Wigley, published by Ebury Press
Shortlist: Jikoni by Ravinder Bhogal, published by Bloomsbury Publishing
Shortlist: Summer Kitchens by Olia Hercules, published by Bloomsbury Publishing
Shortlist:Fire, Smoke, Green: Vegetarian barbecue, smoking and grilling recipes by Martin Nordin, published by Hardie Grant
Debut Cookery Book
Winner: The Pie Room by Calum Franklin, published by Bloomsbury Absolute
Shortlist: Parwana: Recipes and stories from an Afghan kitchen by Durkhanai Ayubi, published by Murdoch Books
Shortlist: The Rangoon Sisters: Recipes from our Burmese family kitchen by Amy Chung and Emily Chung, published by Ebury Press
Winner: Wine Girl by Victoria James, published by Little, Brown Book Group / Fleet imprint
Shortlist: How To Drink Without Drinking by Fiona Beckett, published by Kyle Books / Octopus
Shortlist: Inside Bordeaux by Jane Anson, published by Berry Bros. & Rudd Press
Debut Drink Book
Winner: CO SPECS: Recipes & Histories of Classic Cocktails by Cas Oh, published by Cazerac Publishing
Shortlist: Which Wine When by Bert Blaize and Claire Strickett, published by Ebury Press
Shortlist: Drink? by Professor David Nutt, published by Yellow Kite
Winner: Ruby Tandoh for work in Vittles
Shortlist: Yvonne Maxwell for work in Vittles
Shortlist: Olivia Potts for work in Longreads.com and The Spectator
Winner: Georgina Hayden for work in Waitrose Food Magazine
Shortlist: Diana Henry for work in The Telegraph’s Stella magazine
Shortlist: Meera Sodha for work in The Guardian Feast
Winner: Will Hawkes for work in Pellicle Magazine and Tonic Magazine
Shortlist: Fiona Beckett for work in The Guardian Feast
Shortlist: Hamish Smith for work in CLASS Magazine
Winner: Jimi Famurewa for work in Evening Standard ES Magazine
Shortlist: Tania Ballantine for work in Time Out London
Shortlist: Grace Dent for work in The Guardian Feast
Winner: Saving Britain’s Pubs with Tom Kerridge, Bone Soup Productions
Shortlist: Great British Menu, Optomen Television Ltd
Shortlist: Nigella’s Cook, Eat, Repeat, BBC Studios Factual Entertainment
Radio or Podcast
Winner: Honey & Co: The Food Talks, Presenters: Sarit Packer & Itamar Srulovich. Producer: Miranda Hinkley
Shortlist: Root + Bone Podcast, Presenter: Tim Wild. Producer: Thomas Duncan
Shortlist: The Olive Magazine Podcast, Presenter: Janine Ratcliffe. Producer: Ben Youatt
Winner: Rob Lawson
Shortlist: John Carey
Shortlist: Nassima Rothacker
PERSONALITY OF THE YEAR
Winner: James Martin, chef and host of ITV’s Saturday Morning show
Winner: Pinch of Nom
Judges’ Choice Award
Fortnum & Mason Special Award