Portuguese restaurant Portal, in Farringdon, counts José Mourinho as its number one fan, and Katie Avis-Riordan may well come in at number two, as she discovers a place with attentive service, well-executed dishes and a beautiful setting

The Resident:

As we entered Portal, it felt like I had been transported to an idyllic Portuguese dimension away from the sharp suits and business types of Farringdon. Following a typically warm Mediterranean welcome, we were led through the restaurant’s dimly-lit wine bar towards a lofty conservatory where elegant white tables were laid out immaculately.

Abstract paintings, book-lined shelves and artistic ornaments cover the exposed red-brick walls, while plant pots sit the tables, and lush green ferns and vines line the garden path shown through the rooms floor-to-ceiling windows – a touch of the countryside in an otherwise industrial-looking room.

Taking our seats it became apparent that Portal is all about the individual and authentic approach. Most notably, this included the skilled service from the waiters who were never intrusive, but calm, knowledgeable and friendly. They offered the best selections from the specialist port and wine list to complement each course.

To start, I opted for octopus with sweet potato and pineapple salad, and was not disappointed. Shaped like a multi-coloured crescent moon, the food tasted as good as it looked, a delicious explosion of contrasting flavours and textures. My friend had scallops with farinheira crumble, chicken broth, bok choy and pickled carrots, which judging by her empty plate, went down a treat. There is nothing ordinary about Portal’s cuisine, which blends contemporary and traditional Portuguese flavours under the expert eye of new head chef Vitor Veloso.

For the mains we chose lamb with parsnip purée, wild mushrooms and Brussels sprouts, and Dover sole with cauliflower purée, smoked pork belly and lemon foam. The meat was tender, cooked to perfection, and richly enhanced by the accompanying ingredients. The fish was delicate and mouth-watering when married with the purée and lemon foam. Initially the artistically constructed dishes seemed on the light side, yet they were surprisingly filling. Each dish, like the restaurant’s interior, was beautifully and intricately designed. The devil is in the detail in at Portal, from the styling of the plates to the water infused with lemon slices and mint leaves. And this extends right through to the dessert menu.

My companion had caramelised apple cake with cinnamon syrup and apple mousse, while I picked one of the restaurant’s, and Portugal’s, favourite treats, pasteis de nata (custard tart) and cinnamon ice cream. The flaky, warm custard tart and ice cream fused and melted in the mouth, leaving a sweet, creamy and happy aftertaste.

Ultimately, Portal is a place that cares about more than just its concept. Atmosphere, service, design and food are all given equal weighting by those who work there and, as a result, its diners given an authentic, stylish and satisfying dining experience.

Portal Restaurant and Bar, 88 St John Street, EC1M 4EH; 020 7253 6950; portalrestaurant.com