Fish and chips doesn’t come much better than at Kerbisher & Malt. Vicky Smith channels the spirit of the seaside at their new branch in East Sheen 

Three years ago, Kerbisher & Malt opened in Brook Green, bringing with it glistening portions of fish and chips to locals eager to eat one of the UK’s favourite dishes exactly the way it should be served – fresh, crispy and hearty. The simple – but winning – formula proved such a hit that several branches followed, including one in East Sheen that opened earlier this year.

Feeling a little hard done by that summer holidays were over, and keen to evoke seaside memories, we headed down on a sunny evening to see if Kerbisher lived up to the hype (5 stars from Time Out, named one of the Top 5 London Chippies by the Evening Standard, and recently winning the Esquire award for the UK’s Best Contemporary Chippy).

The décor is fresh and un-fussy, with cosy booths, white tiled walls, and a stylish and classy nautical colour scheme. Peruse the menu, order at the counter and prepare to have your appetite sated, as portions are huge and the food irresistible.

Fish comes either grilled, battered or coated in matzo meal, so if you’re feeling guilty after a summer of indulgence, it’s possible to ‘go healthy’, with a side of fennel salad too. However, it’s hard to resist yummy accompaniments such as pickled onion rings, spicy veg bites and, of course, the chips, which are double fried and delicious. Homemade tartare and curry sauces complete the picture, and there are also treats such as fish cake burgers, calamari, whitebait and battered sausages available, as well as lunchtime specials for only £4.50. Extra points too for bottles of Heinz ketchup and Sarson’s vinger on every table. In fact, all that’s really missing is the sound of the sea…

170 Upper Richmond Road West, East Sheen SW14 8AW;