Mayfair’s The Greenhouse offers a two Michelin star restaurant experience in a serene oasis tucked away from the busy London high street
The most unashamedly fine dining institution in Marlon Abela’s British collection, The Greenhouse restaurant offers an experience that manages to be both classy and charming at the same time. Recently re-awarded its second Michelin star for chef Arnaud Bignon’s French cooking, it has managed to retain its place at the pinnacle of London’s competitive dining scene. But is it really as good as everyone says?
The first thing to notice about The Greenhouse is how peaceful it is. Set in a low-ceilinged room at the end of a tree-lined pathway, it entirely lacks the glitzy ‘THIS IS A RESTAURANT’ chutzpah, preferring something altogether more intimate. Rather than battalions of staff, a friendly hello and you’re seated at your table and offered a glass of (extremely welcome) Perrier-Jouët.
The food is exquisite, from the first little canapés that accompany the champagne to the final petit fours. Unusually for a two Michelin-starred establishment, the portion sizes are decent, meaning that the three-course a la carte is enough to leave you sated.
If one was nitpicking, then I’d say that my scallop tartare with zebra tomatoes to start was ever so slightly too sharp – but then the mixture of top-notch ingredients and precise, hugely accomplished cooking more than made up for it, while a splendid main course of presa Iberico – which is seldom found in Britain – was beautifully presented, just as my companion’s lobster, followed by veal, made for fine dining at its most intriguing.
I could rave even further, from the splendidly witty presentation of the desserts, to the excellent cheeseboard, but space and discretion bid me stop. It’s not cheap but the set lunch at £40 for three courses, is a fine way of enjoying a (vintage) champagne lifestyle on a Prosecco budget. This after all is the very hottest of greenhouses.
The Knowledge
Cost
Dinner for two around £300
Good for
French fine dining at its very best in a marvellously relaxing setting
What to eat
The more unusual the dish, the more memorable your experience will be
What to know
If you feel bold, there’s a chef’s ‘discovery’ menu at £120 per head
27A Hay’s Mews W1J 5NY; greenhouserestaurant.co.uk
Words by Alexander Larman
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