As one of Islington’s best French restaurants, Almeida could seem a little intimidating, but Sarah White discovers French food isn’t all white table cloths, stuffy service and snails
French restaurants usually conjure images of stuffy service, stale breadsticks and a hefty price tag in my mind. A creature of habit, I am embarrassed to admit that I tend to favour a handful of the same restaurants in Angel when eating out and was delighted to be forced out of my comfort zone when asked to review Almeida.
Tucked away off Upper Street, we were surprised by the vast space of the restaurant, making it ideal for larger parties, groups of friends and long Sunday lunches with all the family. We were greeted like old friends, and instantly made to relax with the help of a fizzing glass of champagne. This restaurant is all about the ingredients, with a strong focus on simple and fresh seasonal produce, complemented by subtle, thoughtful flavours.
We started with a vivid grass green soup, mopped up with the fluffiest of homemade bread, slathered in lashings of calorie-laden salty butter. After our starter we soon realised the concept at the Almeida defies any French fancy we had imagined. There is no fussy jus or sickly sauces, and we squealed with delight as course after course appeared, each more elegant than the last.
A perfect example of this simple yet delicious menu was the diver caught scallops with artichoke, broad beans and parmesan. Cooked to crisp perfection, this dish was something I’m still dreaming about – fresh and light they melted in the mouth. Again the fresh food was further enhanced by a superb sommelier who very kindly kept us delicately hydrated throughout the evening with ample knowledge and charm.
Head Chef Tommy Boland commutes all the way from Barnes to N1, something which we were very grateful for when we tucked into our next course. Sampling two of the signature dishes for our main courses – the roasted fillet of cod with crispy bacon, shoots and lemon oil and the sirloin steak – we were really impressed by the quality and presentation. Two dishes that can so easily be ruined by a lack of care and poor timings, both were cooked to perfection and absolutely divine.
My only comment would be that the decor could do with some of the warmth and character that’s so prevalent with the service, but apparently this is already in hand. Ideal for when you’re in the mood for something a bit special, and of course for pre- or post-theatre, we will definitely be returning – this time with a large table of friends and lots more champagne.
30 Almeida StreetN1 1AD; 020 7354 4777; almeida-restaurant.co.uk
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