Restaurant-Review--Busaba-Eath-16c0be5f

RESTAURANT REVIEW: BUSABA EATHAI, SHOREDITCH

What’s the best brunch for a hangover? One that blows your mind… Step forward Busaba Eathai in Shoreditch, who have launched a new brunch menu that will make your taste buds tingle

With the sun beating down, sweat trickling down my back, and caught in the middle of an excitable market day throng, the decision to visit Busaba Eathai Shoreditch on a Sunday morning was looking like a bad idea. On top of the elements, I had a raging hangover and in all honesty I just wanted my bed.

Still, I am nothing if not a trooper, so I managed to limp to the restaurant along with my smugly sober companion. A relatively newbie compared to the Thai chain’s many other London restaurants, Busaba Eathai Shoreditch comes with the same dedication to quality food, but the brunch menu was a new addition to its offering that tempted me out to work on a Sunday morning (when I didn’t take into account the night before).

Entering the restaurant is a rather calming experience. It’s like a spa, with floating music and wooden interiors everywhere. After the crowds en-route, it was just what the doctor ordered. Looking at their brunch menu, they know exactly what is required for the hot new meal of the day. They even have a ‘hangover cure’, Khai Luak, which is a soft-boiled free range egg with Thai seasoning – accompanied by a spicy Busaba Mary for that much-required reboot.

However, I bottled that and plumped for the scrambled eggs, served with soy sauce on Josper chargrilled toast, topped with crispy chilli. It was the later that made this stand out: after each mouthful I gratefully slurped down some more of my Guava Collins (guava, lime, coconut and lime leaf). It was a rather surreal meal as I could feel my fogginess ebbing away after every bite. I think my mouth is still tingling.

The aforementioned sober companion decided to ram home the point by opting for the Prosecco brunch, an unlimited top up of the fizzy stuff for a couple of hours, alongside a light bite and main brunch meal of your choice. Opting to stick a liquid brunch, she passed on the opener and went straight for the Thai hash: spiced potato hash with spring onion, galangal and red chilli served with two Thai-style fried free range eggs. It was a generous dish with, again, the spiciness elevating it above your standard brunch fodder. Both dishes were filling for this time of day, so we really didn’t need the sweet potato fries on the side, but what the hell. It’s the weekend.

Brunch has become – quite rightly – a big thing in London, so the competition is fierce out there. But for the way I felt today, Busaba Eathai was the right choice – and judging by the slurring in my companion’s speech post-meal, I reckon I will be heading back pretty soon.

Words: Mark Kebble

36 Bethnal Green RoadE1 6HT; 020 7033 1288; busaba.com

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