Glossy brasserie West Thirty Six has opened its doors on Golborne Road, but are its dishes as interesting as the venue itself? Catherine McCabe grabs a table by the monkey-covered wallpaper to find out
People are saying some strange things about Golborne Road lately, referring to it with sentences like, ‘it’s coming up’. I can respond with little more than an arched eyebrow, because to me Golborne has never been down. What they mean is a new Tatler-esque glitz has found its way in with the latest opening West Thirty Six, owned by Robert Newmark, also known as Mr Beach Blanket Babylon.
West Thirty Six sets itself up as a grill house/brasserie. Downstairs, it’s white tablecloths and neat place settings, but on the second and third floors, it’s more like a gentlemen’s club with thick leather Chesterfields, dimmed lighting and shelves lined with used books and whiskey decanters.
We found ourselves sitting in an upstairs room where monkeys hide in the wallpaper. Beside us, a group was hosting a mini photoshoot against the bookcase with an iPhone. The waitress, dressed in what looked like a 1940s accountant’s uniform was impossibly friendly, and recommended the scallops with chorizo, which turned out to be the best dish of the night.
Like Beach Blanket, the food is uncomplicated grill house fare, but always fancied up. There’s a big focus on the cocktails (try the Wild Bramble). My starter of ricotta with pickled quince was the best possible version of posh cheese on toast, but I made the mistake of ordering the £25 steak. It was enormous; I felt like it was my first panicky day on the Atkins, but the beef was undeniably good quality. For dessert, the 70s option of crushed banoffee was better than expected, smooth and not-too-sweet.
The menu is more comforting than groundbreaking, but I feel there’s potential at West Thirty Six for something more. For now, it’s a great place to sink into a leather seat cushion with a cocktail in hand, enjoying its members’ club atmosphere without the sting of an annual fee.
36 Golborne Road W10 5NR; w36.co.uk
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