RESTAURANT REVIEW: M VICTORIA STREET
Whether its cocktails with friends or a glamorous date night you’re after, M Victoria Street restaurant delivers with two restaurants – Grill and Raw – a wine shop, bar and even a speakeasy for club members
Words: Vicky Mayer
When it comes to culinary experiences, here in London we’re great at gastro pubs, causal dining and pop-ups. We’re awash too with Michelin-starred restaurants and 5 star hotel bars, but what about something in the middle? Somewhere you can dress up for and enjoy the delights of a beautifully decorated space, without having a nightmare about your overdraft?
Step forward M Victoria Street, a swish and stylish offering in increasingly smart Victoria which offers not one but two restaurants – Grill and Raw – a wine shop, bar and even a speakeasy for club members.
Brainchild of Martin Williams, the former MD of steak restaurant Gaucho and Le Gavroche chef Michael Reid, M Victoria Street follows in the footsteps of its older sister restaurant, M City. But unlike its city sister, M Victoria Street is less masculine, understanding that the Victoria crowd is more female and creative.
Despite being situated in a basement, the layout and décor of the place is very impressive – think high-end New York bar and grill with each section, seamlessly interconnected.
Here you can join friends for a cheeky after work cocktail or eat in Raw, the healthy Japanese-inspired eaterie, where you sit opposite a 10ft long marble bar which separates you from the chefs. Alternatively, push the boat out and dine at the grand deco inspired Grill with its instagrammable leather banquets, just made for a hot date.
As the name implies, Grill is famous for its meaty offerings from favourites like braised lamb to an impressive menu of steaks from six countries around the world – USA, Argentina, France, Italy, South Africa, Australia.
The helpful staff at M Victoria Street are super flexible so we opted for starters from the Raw menu – faultless firm and tender tuna sashimi and a delicate soft shell crab sashimi, leaving ourselves room for the main attractions. I chose the lamb – grilled to perfection while my guest went for the Australian sirloin, a triumphant hit of flavour and texture.
We shared sides of fries and market vegetables but the meat dishes here really are the stars – and you won’t be disappointed by the flavour punch they deliver. We also chose to pair our wine to our dishes, helped by the knowledgeable sommelier (so much easier than doing it yourself!).
Full to the brim, we still went for a shared dessert – pavlova – but wish we hadn’t. This deconstructed dish was just trying too hard and let down the otherwise excellent food.
M Victoria Street is a must visit when you’re next in SW1, whether it’s a drink with friends or an impressive date spot you’re after. We’ll be back.
3 Zig Zag Building, 70 Victoria Street SW1E 6SQ; mrestaurants.co.uk