Restaurant Review: Greenwood, Victoria

Comfort food is the order of the day at Greenwood, a newly-opened gastropub at Nova Victoria. Mark Kebble heads to London’s newest foodie hub to see what all the fuss is about

Rarely does a day go by in the SW Resident office when yet another email drops into the inbox signposting yet another new opening at Nova Victoria. The complex is part of a huge regeneration project around the busy station and we thought it high time to see what the fuss is all about.

The first place you come across upon leaving the station is Greenwood, so my guest and I thought it was as good a place as any to see if Nova is a worthy new kid on the block.

Comfort food is the order of the day at Greenwood

The venue is absolutely huge: the bar area looks wonderful and, more importantly, there were plenty of staff on show to ensure you will get your drink quick (quite a rare thing in London, sadly).

Upstairs there is a sports bar that, on this occasion, was rammed with Chelsea and Manchester Utd in European action. Back downstairs there are tables dotted around for diners, with eager waiting staff on hand.

Greenwood’s menu is one that will keep even the fussiest eater happy

Opting against actual starters, we went for smaller ‘for the table’ dishes to kick off proceedings. The garlic pizza bread did what it said on the tin, but the mac ‘n’ cheese balls were slightly disappointing, especially with parts still cold.

Onwards and upwards, however, and the smoked BBQ short rib burger was a gooey mess where napkins were crucial, while the flat iron steak was well cooked and presented. The side of broccoli, chilli and almonds sounded great, but it didn’t taste it – long broccoli stems simply slathered in chilli sauce didn’t quite cut the mustard.

The evening was pleasant enough, but there is a sense Greenwood is trying to cater for all markets. Not necessarily a bad thing, but we will stick to our restaurants in Clapham.

170 Victoria Street SW1E 5LB; 020 3058 1000;