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Pure Indian Cooking Fulham: ‘A whole new spin on Indian fine-dining’

With Indian cuisine pervasive across Britain nowadays, it’s refreshing to discover an Indian restaurant that puts a new spin on traditional dishes, as Judith Baker discovered when she visited Pure Indian Cooking in Fulham, which has one of London’s leading female chefs at the helm…

Photo: Pure Indian Cooking

Pure Indian is found at the unassuming end of Fulham Road close to Putney Bridge. Although it looks simple enough, its exterior hides one of London’s most exciting and tasteful new culinary additions.

The restaurant is headed up by Shilpa Dandekar, one of London’s leading head chefs. She previously worked with Raymond Blanc and was picked by him as Head Chef for Brasserie Blanc.

Pure Indian Cooking is owned by Shilpa and her husband, Faheen Vanoo, who both started their careers with the Taj group in India. So we had high expectations when we visited, and were not disappointed.

The menu puts a whole new spin on Indian fine dining. It includes a tasting menu which has a range of the chef’s creative dishes such as grilled scallops with beetroot lime zest, pachadi and Kasoondi mustard pan-fried stone bass.

The scallops were delicate and delicious and for starters we also chose the recommended patra chat, (colocasia leaves served with yoghurt, date and tamarind chutney) and a surprising orange and tamarind chicken tikka.

All were inventive and tasty, with Indian flavours mixed with spicy combinations less familiar to our palette. We tried lamb sukke, a Maharashtrian style lamb cooked in dry spices and then one of Chef Shilpa’s specialities, halibut fish curry, which was divine.

Vegetable options include bhindi anardana – a bhindi masala given a twist with dry and fresh pomegranate.

The décor here is pared back and neutral, with none of the traditional Indian wallpaper and decoration found in high street restaurants. The food here is the main attraction and takes centre stage. In fact the simplicity of the surroundings adds to the sophistication of the menu.

The staff here are attentive and happy to provide advice and suggestions. And although we don’t always associate Indian cuisine with puddings, there is an unusual dessert menu which includes a tempting warm almond halva, poached cherries and sauce with vanilla ice and an interesting sounding dessert beer – Liefmans fruit beer.

With a good wine list and relaxed ambience it is no surprise that many clientele are now referring to Pure Indian Cooking as a West End restaurant in Fulham.

Address: 67 Fulham High Street, SW6 3JJ 
Website: pureindiancooking.com

 

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