Brett Graham, the head chef of Notting Hill’s The Ledbury talks to The Richmond Resident about life in Richmond and his favourite restaurants
Plants and gardening are almost as all consuming a passion as cooking for Australian born Richmond resident Brett Graham, chef-patron of the multi-award-winning, two Michelin star The Ledbury in Notting Hill, which has recently been voted tenth in the World’s Best Restaurants.
Not only do plants and flowers feature in many of the dishes at The Ledbury, especially the rare and recondite – such as English-grown wasabi flowers with fillet of belted Galloway beef, celeriac and juniper – Brett loves to spend time in the great outdoors, and one of his favourite places to visit with his wife Natalie and their pug Winston is the ‘amazing Richmond Park’. Enthuses Brett: ‘For me, it is the main attraction of living in Richmond. I find it a really special place for peace and quiet away from the craziness of the restaurant, especially in the woods.’ On the way home, they like to call in at Albert’s Deli for ‘outstanding coffee, and it is run by lovely people too.’
He also likes walking on the ‘very beautiful’ Sheen Common and, especially when family are visiting from Australia, Hampton Court ‘where there are some really special spots down by the river.’ He loves Kew Gardens too, which he finds ‘a great place to seek inspiration.’
For eating out in Richmond, naturally, Petersham Nurseries is a huge favourite. ‘It’s a really arcadian, relaxing spot when I want to switch off.’ He finds the cooking of Lucy Boyd (daughter of late River Cafe co-owner Rose Gray) really beautiful too, especially as it uses so many ingredients grown in their own ‘impressively extensive and adventurous kitchen gardens.’ He often picks up plants and Italian seed varieties at Petersham for his own garden, as well as the occasional beautiful object for the home.
Otherwise, he confesses his local shopping is limited to the gorgeous chocolates from William Curley on Paved Court and ‘a hidden gem’ Gelateria Danieli on Brewer’s Lane, who do wonderful luscious flavours all made on the premises. Brett sometimes ventures to Duck Pond Farmers Market on Sundays in Heron Square. He rates Oliver’s Wholefoods in Kew for its ‘incredibly well informed staff and exceptional stock’, and in Kew Village Zita Elze for ‘absolutely fabulous flowers.’
Though Brett rarely has time for eating out locally, he is partial to The Victoria, Paul Merrett’s gastro-pub in Sheen, which has a huge garden, making it a good place for a pint after a long walk with Winston. He’s full of praise for The Glasshouse in Kew too, and over the bridge into Chiswick La Trompette with chef Robert Weston whom is a recent protege from Philip Howard’s The Square, where Brett trained many years ago.
These days, it is almost impossible to get a table at The Ledbury without booking three months ahead, though Brett always advises to try for a cancellation on the day. He describes his food as classical French with Japanese and British influences. ‘My style has evolved,’ he reveals. ‘These days the technique behind the dishes is more hidden if just as complex, and the customer doesn’t really sense it on the plate except in the multi textural favours. My focus is emphatically on how fresh the produce is and I’m sourcing more and more in the UK.’ His latest coup is having Jockey, former head of pastry and development at The Fat Duck – often seen assisting Heston Blumenthal on TV – advising him and his wonderful sous chef Greg Austin in the kitchen, helping with developing fabulous ideas to bring an extra dimension to this already impressive kitchen.
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