The Fat Badger Brunch Brings Countryside Flavours to Richmond

On a crisp sunny day in Richmond-on-Thames, Judith Baker discovers that heading up to Richmond Hill Rise for a spot of brunch after a long walk along the river watching rowers, dog walkers and children feeding ducks is a real treat…

Photo: The Fat Badger

The Fat Badger is one of Richmond’s newest and most distinctive restaurants, combining a rural farm to fork philosophy with urban chic. It is one of a number of London restaurants owned by the Gladwin brothers who are making their mark on the London foodie scene.

They claim to use all things foraged and locally grown, including sustainable livestock from their own family farm. In keeping with their commitment to ‘what grows together goes together’ the wines on the menu are all from their boutique vineyard in Nutbourne, West Sussex.

A glass of The Nutbourne sparkling was certainly the ideal fizz to put us in a sunny mood. With light flooding in through floor to ceiling windows and views down to the river the scene was set for an elegant Saturday brunch experience.

Fat Badger is artfully decorated with striking blue walls, marble topped tables, colourful paintings, oak floors and pink and green furnishings.

The menu here is not a list of the usual ubiquitous brunch fare, although it does include the classics. The menu champions British produce and promises the spoils of the English countryside and coast.

We were intrigued by the sound of a mushroom Marmite éclair which appeared as a small pretty appetiser. And in keeping with the Marmite slogan, I relished mine while my husband pushed his around his plate.

After that I chose lovely fresh smoked trout with hollandaise, poached eggs and chargrilled toast and my husband had the perfectly cooked rump steak, fried egg with lyonnaise onions and crispy potatoes. The dishes are served on unusual artisan plates.

The menu also includes AAA Maldon oysters shucked at the counter, honey glazed gammon benedict, mushroom ragu and the hearty Badger English breakfast.

Brunch isn’t brunch in our book without a bloody Mary, and the Badger take on this classic brunch cocktail doesn’t disappoint.

Other cocktails on the menu including the oyster martini and British negroni looked as if they packed a similar punch. Service was friendly and attentive, and The Fat Badger is dog and child friendly making this a lovely spot for families and couples alike.

The brasserie is open all day with ‘Sundays on the Farm’ promising a memorable Sunday roast and set lunch menus as well as an interesting a la carte offering and bar menu.

Other restaurants in the Gladwin brothers’ Local & Wild portfolio include The Shed in Notting Hill, Nutbourne in Battersea, Rabbit in Chelsea and Sussex in Soho.

All the food served is overseen by Chef Director Oliver Goodwin who creates seasonal menus that demonstrate his flair for creative cooking.

Brunch Hours: Saturday & Sunday 10am-12pm
Address: 15-17 Hill Rise, Richmond TW10 6UQ


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