Lorraine Crighton-Smith samples fine dining in the dark (well, by the warm glow of candlelight) at Andaz Liverpool Street’s Grade-II listed 1901 restaurant
Fine dining illuminated by candlelight isn’t a groundbreaking concept but a visit to a Candlelight Evening at 1901 restaurant at Andaz Liverpool Street Hotel in London will blow you away. The restaurant is one of seven restaurants and bars at the five-star hotel on Liverpool Street and you can access it directly from the street. It’s a magnificent space; 1901 is set in the former ballroom of the Great Eastern Hotel and is Grade II listed.
Aside from the high ceilings and the decadent interior decor, the first thing you notice is the many candles creating a warm glow around the room.
In the centre of the restaurant is the impressive looking 1901 bar taking pride of place under a striking stained-glass windowed ceiling dome. We began our evening with an Andaz signature cocktail, my Jack’s Martini (£12) – so named after Jack the Ripper in a nod to the 1888 East London serial killer – was fresh and zesty. Made with Hendrick’s Gin, elderflower cordial, cucumber and lemon, it was served in a distinctive, tall and elegant martini glass.
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As we sat down to dine, the attentive waiting staff distributed the 1901 la carte menu and there was a collective buzz of excitement around the table.
Starters of pan-roasted scallops with delicate parcels of smoked haddock and shrimp tortellini, and bisque emulsion (£12) was superb. Devon soft-shell crab with blackberry jelly and grapefruit (£14) was also impressive.
Moving on to the next course, there was a clear contestant for most popular request on our table – several ordered the halibut with crab and brown shrimp risotto, watercress and artichoke purèe (£27), a resounding success. My main of Welsh lamb – rack and belly – was tender and delectable, and well accompanied by a crispy onion rosti, pickled sharon fruit, confit tomato and sweet potato purée (£28). Beef fillet with potato cake, oxtail spring roll, stilton beignet, carrot and courgette purée (£29) was also scrumptious.
Wine was expertly chosen by 1901’s sommelier, and for dessert we shared a selection of small bites. Moreish macarons, tasty bites of apple and almond cake, passionfruit chocolates and tantalising cheesecake.
The candles were still going strong as we ended our evening at 1901 restaurant; while it’s certainly bright enough to see what you’re eating, it’s atmospheric and unforgettable.
Candlelight Evenings at Andaz Liverpool Street are now available every last Wednesday of the month at no additional cost. For further information or to make a reservation, please contact London.restres@andaz.com or call 0207 618 7000
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