The flagship restaurant at new Shoreditch spot, Sun Street Hotel looks to combine the delicate flavours of Southeast Asia with traditional British produce. So is there a harmony or do the flavours clash?
Quercus, named after the quercus palustris oak tree that rests in the restaurant courtyard, sits on a bustling Shoreditch road, next to the Flying Horse Pub, which is heaving even on a Wednesday night.
The restaurant, who's owner is of Malaysian heritage, said it is committed to sourcing produce from ethically and environmentally aware sources.
Its unassuming entrance on Sun Street stands at odds with the skyscrapers and uniform office buildings nearby, and as you step into the Georgian building the roar of outside fades to nothing.
Upon entry you are ushered into its courtyard and presented with a wine of your choice. The eyes of attentive staff flicker nervously upon seeing your rapidly emptying glass, but you are never made to feel rushed.
After a while in the courtyard, you are invited into the dining area which has chestnut brown floors and a combination of brown brick and green-painted walls.
No sooner have you finished your first glass of wine, the menu comes along.
First up is a mainstay of Japanese cuisine, a modest portion of edamame beans as an appetiser, encrusted with sizzling chilli flakes to give it a distinctive flavour.
After a long day’s work my colleague and I were soon keen for more, but no sooner had our plates left the table, the first course arrived.
White Kent asparagus in brown butter was served with a sharp Australian sauvignon blanc, the delicate flavours of the vegetables complimenting the wine’s tang.
For the next course came hand-divided Cornish scallops, unconventionally adorned with black sesame and sweet yuzu jelly either side, served with a fruity Basque-region Riesling.
At first this struck me as odd, but upon tasting the dish the tender scallops contrasted nicely with the sesame and the sweet, fruity yuzu droplets.
Still hungry, we were glad to learn the main course would arrive soon.
Braised beef rib seasoned with panch poran, a south Asian five-flavour blend, was served with white sticky rice, a staple for many in the continent, and long green beans.
The beef's heaviness provided the perfect counterweight to the light and modest quantity of rice, with a subtle scattering of green beans giving the dish freshness.
For this course we had a fullsome red, a South-African stellenbosch, cleansing the palette after forkfulls of beef, which had a spicy kick once the chilli sauce was added.
With just enough room left, dessert came long and though less adventurous than the rest of the meal in scope, it was by no means less appetising.
Vegan raspberry cream was layered between slivers, with fresh berries adorned on top. A dessert that would normally be heavy was made lighter by the shortbread’s thinness, and the cream’s plant-based ingredients.
To finish we had an Australian De Bortoli Botrytis, a soothing dessert wine that drew the evening to a warm close.
As fusion food goes, Quercus hit the spot. The environment was charming and staff were polite and efficient.
Quercus would appeal to City of London workers, or those looking to treat a partner or friend. We left full, but not stuffed and eager to return in the summer months.
Opening hours are from 12pm to 3pm for lunch Wednesday to Friday and 6pm till 10pm on Tuesday to Saturday evenings.
Address: 5-15 Sun Street, Shoreditch EC2A 2EP
Website: sunstreethotel.com
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