Resident Chef - July 2007
When the glorious summer comes around, a majority of Londoners start to think of lazy days in one of the capitals various green spaces sunbathing and quaffing the odd glass of medicinal fizz, followed, of course, by that oldest of traditions – the summer barbecue. Those of us without tropical pads look forward to these balmy months throughout the cold, grey winter while reminiscing about rose-tinted, champagne-fogged memories of summers past. But actually how many truly good barbecues have you been to? Of course the company is usually good and there is plenty of booze on hand, but is the food ever really that good? Suddenly, those among you who wouldn’t normally be seen dead in a fast food outlet find it perfectly acceptable to munch away on a piece of charred processed cow, stuffed between a white bap, containing more artificial preservatives than can possibly be good for you.
Don’t fret; the food on this year’s barbecue is going to be on a par with the best restaurants in town. With a little insider knowledge and some well-sourced products you’ll be serving melt-in-the-mouth British reared suckling pig (silkier and smoother than pork, with a thin and crispy crackling), Denhay air-dried hams from Dorset, Welsh black beef rib roasts or British rose veal from Cumbria… all al fresco in your own back garden, roof terrace, balconette – or in the square garden if they’ll let you. Thanks to the rising demand for quality artisan products, over the past few years Londoners can buy all of this and much, much more at the click of a button. The number of farmers and organic growers continues to increase as the public become more interested in where their supper has come from and how it got there. Obviously this is a wonderful thing for all of us and will hopefully see the resurgence of the small independent businesses for which Britain was once renowned.
As they surge back, the quality offered gets better and better – you can buy rose veal ethically raised on milk in a barn-loose housing environment from the likes of Farmer Sharp and his collective of Cumbrian farmers, as well as traditional breeds of sheep (Herdwick) and beef (Galloway). Pugh’s Piglets provide the most stunning suckling pig and their 40-plus years farming experience is evident in the taste and succulence of their outstanding meats. Better still, these guys will trim and roll for you and even give you tips on how best to cook and serve as well.
If this has inspired you to offer more than a singed frankfurter this summer, check out the butchers section at www.formanandfield.com for barbecue fare, or, even better, get down to Borough Market on a Saturday and meet the farmers in person.
Chris Staines is Head Chef at the Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, 66 Knightsbridge, SW1X, 020 7201 3723
www.mandarinoriental.com/london
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