Tuddenham Mill

by Lucy Land

The History: This bolthole is a converted 18th-century water mill set in 12 acres of land. The water wheel still works and takes pride of place, atmospherically uplit and encased in glass behind the bar, while the 19th-century, 53ft chimney is also illuminated. The mill continued grinding until 1954 and lay derelict until it was eventually converted into a restaurant in 1972. Today, it’s also home to three bedrooms featuring exposed beams – with 12 further bedrooms in a new separate building.

The Room: Our loft suite, overlooking the water meadow, has a six-foot Prosetto bed, a large stand-alone bath, oversized sofa, a stylish gas fire, Loewe LCD TV, Bose soundsystem and iPod dock, and a Starck-fitted en-suite complete with his ‘n’ hers sinks, Missoni bathrobes and generously sized Jo Malone toiletries. There’s plenty of attention to detail with a telescope positioned in front of the skylight, a minibar with complimentary water, juice and fresh milk as well as a half-bottle of Fleurie La Madame and Chablis Durup. The hotel’s own branded sloe gin sits on the bedside tables. There’s also homemade fudge and biscuits.

The Restaurant: Boasting exposed oak beams, Asian-inspired music at just the right volume and a superb location overlooking the swan-studded stream, the restaurant also has a great menu. Plenty of fresh, local produce goes into Gordon McNeill and his team’s deliciously creative modern European fare.

The Upside: This is a perfect year-round rural retreat: take a country walk (there’s a brolly in your room, if needed) or warm yourself by the reception log fire with the resident lurcher, Stopit. In the summer, play boules on the lawn and enjoy lunch by the pond. If you visit during the racing season you might share the hotel with some well-known jockeys – including Frankie Detorri.

The Downside: For those in the first flush of romance, check into one of the Mill Stream or Water Meadow rooms with a door on the bathroom.

The Extras: The three rooms in the main millhouse boast specially commissioned double-ended stone baths big enough for three.

The Details: Doubles from £195, suites from £345

Tuddenham Mill, High Street, Tuddenham, Near Newmarket, Suffolk, IP28 6SQ, 01638 713552 
www.tuddenhammill.co.uk