Food reviews

Waterloo Brasserie

It’s all happening in SE1– the buzz of the new South Bank development spreading well into the backstreets of Waterloo. This appealing all-day offering from the team behind Chelsea’s Cheyne Walk Brasserie is one of many exciting newcomers to have opened here of late. Stylishly decorated in dark wood and cream with funky modern lights and colourful artwork, it splits into separate bar, restaurant and private dining areas, catering to anything from power breakfasts to pre-theatre drinks (the Old Vic is just opposite).

The menu is similarly accommodating, kicking off with an early bird selection of Continental and English breakfasts right through to rare treats like fried duck’s egg with ox tongue and tomato confit. Later on, you can pick from snacks, sharing plates and main meals, anything from pastas, grills and salads to French brasserie classics like fish soup, steak frites and cassoulet.

The 45-minute lunch offer, a bargain at £9.95, was unavailable on our early visit so we decided to relax over the full three courses. No one was disappointed. From flawless beginning (perfectly cooked scallops served on lentils glossed with punchy herb dressing) to super-sweet close (gooey chocolate fondant with salty caramel sorbet), we couldn’t fault a single bite.

Braised beef cheeks with winter vegetables was a particular stand-out, as were the double-cooked chips served with the good, if not spectacular, moules marinières and we also loved the wide by-the-glass wine choice. The service, by contrast, left quite a bit to be desired. Sure enough, staff were probably still finding their feet, but there were too many running around like headless chickens.

Cheyne Walk Brasserie, by contrast, runs like a well-oiled machine so there seems little reason to leave SW3 for the South Bank just to eat. But if you do find yourself in these parts, this one is definitely worth a try.