Food reviews

Resident

Marco

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Above: Marco

Marco Pierre White raised a few eyebrows when he announced the location of his latest restaurant. Most recently home to a branch of Harry Ramsden’s, this Stamford Bridge site didn’t exactly spell out glamour, but Marco’s worked his magic yet again, creating an instantly appealing restaurant that bears all the hallmarks of a MPW classic.

With low lighting, mirrors on the ceiling and a crystal-encrusted pillar, the dining room is a sexy little number, but it never compromises comfort for style. Service, similarly, is impeccably accommodating and with plenty of space between tables (the circular banquettes are particularly private) you never feel crammed in.

Fans of old will delight in a menu full of favourites, some of which date all the way back to the days of Harvey’s, the Wandsworth restaurant where Marco picked up the first of many Michelin stars. These days, of course, it’s not the man himself who mans the stoves but head chef Matthew Brown executes his recipes with aplomb.

It’s pretty much all indulgent stuff, with foie gras making several appearances in the starter selection before popping up again in a delicious main course of foie-topped pigeon cooked to rare perfection and served inside a tender cabbage leaf. Other highlights include a good old-fashioned fish soup with croutons and Gruyère cheese, the signature morel-stuffed pig’s trotter, and MPW’s unbeatable lemon tart.

For the full luxurious experience, make use of the valet parking service – you can always leave the car in the garage overnight if you dive too deep into the impressive wine list – and kick of with cocktails at the chic bar, which offers great views of the often celebrity-studded dining room.

Note that match days see the kitchens go British, churning out hearty classics from a special set-price menu – £39/£45 for two/three courses.

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