Bistro 190 Queens Gate
Above: Bistro 190
This old charmer has been a local secret for so long it’s almost been forgotten. But The Gore Hotel, in which the restaurant is located, has recently changed ownership and the new management is intent on putting the 90s hot-spot back on the map.
Their strategy has involved hiring an ambitious new chef, who honourably accepts last orders right up to 11pm, ensuring Royal Albert Hall concert-goers can now choose to dine after as well as before a show, while drinkers in the next-door bar can linger long over cocktails before sitting down to eat. And there’s no need to rush once ensconced either: the dining room stays open until 1am.
That said, the best time to visit this place is arguably much earlier. Complemented by a fresh continental buffet and boasting anything from a generous Full English to textbook Eggs Benedict, the breakfast menu here is a cracker and we can’t think of a better time to soak up the laid-back atmosphere than over a lingering weekend brunch.
At lunch and dinner, the staple bistro selection has been spruced up with dishes that clearly aim to add modernity but actually come across as a bit yesteryear – all sun-blush tomatoes and rocket. There are also quite a few over-complicated dishes (baked brie, spring onion and mango parcels with tomato and basil crush being a prime example of how too many different flavours sometimes crowd onto a single plate).
Hence, our recommendation would be to stick to the classics. The steak, for instance, is always great here – so it should be at £21.95 for rib-eye – and there’s a lovely range of red wine to go with it. Top the meal with home-cured gravadlax, tail it with cheese or a gooey chocolate pudding and you’re in for a winner.
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