John Burton-Race is back in London, Notting Hill to be precise, with restaurant launch The New Angel. But is the hype surrounding it worth it? Cortlyn Stovall wholeheartedly agrees
Tucked away in Notting Hill is The New Angel, a contemporary yet elegantly converted Victorian pub. So far, so so – but the big story here is this is the latest restaurant from John Burton-Race.
Fresh from success at luxury hotel Danesfield House, the acclaimed chef presides over this chic, modern French-inspired dining room. The menu is eclectic and, to get the ball rolling, we were given caviar and smoked salmon mousse as an amuse bouche. If this was how the rest of the meal was going to pan out, then we would be very happy patrons.
After choices were made, our wonderful sommelier took over the wine pairings. With my confit of Scottish salmon, he offered up a fruity Sauvignon Blanc. Being more a red wine person I was slightly hesitant, but the combination of tender salmon and fresh basil left a wonderful after taste and the wine perfectly complemented that. My friend chose the roasted scallops with curried cauliflower, but before I could ask her how she enjoyed it her plate was already clear. High praise indeed.
It was a great start, but the main courses took things to a whole new level. The sommelier returned once again and offered us both full-bodied, rich red wines to accompany our meals. I selected the fillet of Devonshire lamb rolled in fresh herbs and tomato au jus. The soft pink lamb nearly melted in my mouth and I have to admit I was sad to finish it off, it was that good. As for my friend, I wish I could include a picture of her face after the first bite of her Dutch veal and goat’s curd truffle tortellini. Pure bliss personified.
Desserts were excellent – raspberry soufflé and white chocolate mousse for me, a chocolate mousse trio for her – and capped what was a fabulous meal. I was very impressed with the attention to detail given to all the dishes and the elegant ambience that graced the restaurant, with the hospitable staff adding to the experience. John Burton-Race is never one to shy away from the limelight – and The New Angel will ensure the spotlight remains very much on him.
39 Chepstow Place W2 4TS; 020 7221 7620; thenewangel-nh.co.uk