Welcome to paradise

An archipelago of more than 1,000 islands, the Maldives is a destination of tranquil beauty and a place to experience the ultimate in luxury. Nina Cuthbert visits two resorts for some rest and relaxation

Above: The Maldives

The Maldives is the kind of place you fantasise about when looking out on a cold, drizzly, grey London morning. And when I arrive here, the water really is that turquoise, the sand really is that white and the pink and purple skies reach on forever.

I am whisked away from Male, the nation’s capital, by speedboat to Taj Exotica, located on Emboodhu Finolhu Island. At the centre of one of the largest lagoons in the Maldives, this island was once a simple sand bank, with no vegetation, just a perfect position for a resort. The Taj group bought the land and have created a place that looks so perfect there is barely a coconut out of place.

Golf buggies transport guests across the island, although considering the place is only 2km long, this is the height of laziness and something I never, ever indulge in… much. The lagoon houses more than 30 deluxe villas on stilts in the sea, providing unrivalled peace and tranquility and after a day in the sun, the villa offers a delightful selection of ways to cool off – a plunge pool on your own deck, a ladder down into the lagoon or a pre-prepared bath, filled with the petals of exotic flowers with a panoramic view of the sea.

Relaxation here never stops and The Taj Spa with its lengthy range of exquisite treatments, based on the ancient healing rituals and wellness of India, is a perfect pitstop. The massage bed overlooks the sun setting over the sea and it isn’t long before the meditation and foot ritual work their magic. I easily disappear into the land of nod by the time firm strokes begin across my body.

Hunger always strikes after a tough day of massages and snorkelling and the cuisine here is a delightful education of the palate, most specifically with the 18-course tasting menu. The experience of a menu that is a fusion of Japanese, Thai, Indian and Mediterranean, all cooked in full view, is certainly worth indulging in. Curry-seared scallops with minted sauce vierge and tamarind chutney and a seared teriyaki foie gras are but two of the innovative and delicious dishes that get the taste buds going – just make sure you haven’t booked yourself in for a dive the next day as you may find yourself sinking to the seabed, lead weights completely unnecessary.

Talking of the seabed, the shallow reef that surrounds the island is laden with underwater delights, a rainbow of colours and shoals of tiny fish that dart from one area to another, hounded by baby reef sharks – a sight to behold. Enormous parrot fish move among cliffs of coral and the clarity of the water makes the experience all the more pure.

I fly 45minutes north of Male to the island of Hanimadhoo. From there a 20-minute speedboat ride arrives at Dhonakulhi Island and the resort of Island Hideaway. And ne’er could a name be more apt. This island was uninhabited before 2005 and is just 1.4km long and 500 metres wide. And, unlike most resorts in the Maldives, Island Hideaway is owned by native Maldivians. The island is lush with vegetation, the resort only occupying some five per cent of the total land area.

Each guest is assigned a butler, a native of the Maldives, who is designed to be at your beck and call throughout the stay. They bring fresh muffins to your villa every morning and offer to give you an authentic experience during your stay. A sunset cruise may (if you are lucky) bring with it impromptu performances of Maldivian songs, a fishing trip with them brings home red snapper that is cooked immediately by the chef and a visit to a sand bank, where a shelter made from palm fronds is erected and a seafood lunch is served, is nothing short of spectacular. And that isn’t even mentioning the spa. The Hideaway Spa by Mandara is an oasis amid the green foliage that is abundant across the island. The Balinese massage is a wonder of strength from the diminutive ladies who conduct it.

The Dhonakhuli Residence, where I lay my head each evening, is an enormous stone villa, complete with pool and a secluded area of beach. The living area is a spacious haven and the pièce de résistance is an outdoor bathroom. There is nothing more refreshing than waking up to the sound of the ocean and going outside where the warmth envelopes you, to have a cool shower.

The surrounding reef once again is mind-boggling and a school of baby dolphins seen leaping around the bough of the boat on arrival is testament to the aquatic splendour on offer. An array of water sports is also available but I would highly recommend taking a dive lesson and invading the underwater territory to see some fascinating vegetation and fish of every colour.

If you happen to enjoy a bit of exploring then a short boat ride will take you to one of the inhabited islands. Some 900 people live on the island of Utheem in the Haa Alif Atoll and walking through the main street, the road made up of sand, there is such a sense of peace and togetherness in a place so remote that I have yet to see anywhere else in the world. Children run into the street to play following their day at school and I am shown a large fruit and vegetable garden by the women of the island, with enormous watermelons coming out of the ground. A shrine commemorating Kateeb Mohamed Thakurufans, a 16th-century Maldivian freedom fighter is also located here and the locals take great pride in showing me around.

Before visiting the Maldives, I was under the common misconception that it was just for honeymooners. While it does provide the perfect getaway after a, no doubt, stressful wedding, it is also a place to find out more about a small population of the world. Divers are more than catered for, foodies will relish the cuisine and lazy people (like me) can visit the spa as often as they like. You can even get a 100-metre ride home.

Kuoni Travel (www.kuoniworldclass.co.uk 01306 747001) offers seven nights in the Maldives, staying three nights at the Taj Exotica Resort & Spa (www.tajhotels.com) in a lagoon villa on a bed and breakfast basis and four nights at the resort of Island Hideaway (www.island-hideaway.com) at Dhonakulhi in a Funa Pavilion on bed and breakfast basis, including flights with Emirates Airlines from Heathrow with transfers in resort. Prices for May 2008 from £1,793 per person based on two sharing.