Bovey Castle, Dartmoor National Park

Above: Bovey Castle, Dartmoor National Park

THE HISTORY
Set in 400 acres of Dartmoor National Park, Bovey Castle has long been a destination for the grand sporting country set. In 1906, the castle was built in a lavish, no-expense-spared Tudor splendour by the second Viscount Hambledon, heir to the WH Smith empire.  Weekend house parties rocked – from Hercules Poirot to Jeeves & Wooster, guests indulged in the dining room and went fishing and shooting. It became a railway hotel before going into decline. Three years ago, the hotel - under new ownership - was restored to its former glory when 100 bedrooms became 65.

THE ROOM
Our suite, which looked onto the immaculate valley and lakes, was considerably larger than my London flat. The spacious sitting room, elegantly decorated in Art Deco pictures – framed vintage front covers of Vanity Fair and Vogue magazines – added a modish update to the historic castle. The bathroom was Hollywood glamorous – there was jazzy monochrome wallpaper, a black ceiling (take my word for it – it worked), a roll top bath, an enormous rain shower and a black lacquer dressing table. Local Devon fudge on the king-size bed served as a welcome midnight feast.

THE RESTAURANT
There are three restaurants – everyone is talking about the Mulberry restaurant. Due a Michelin star – the chef has pulled it off twice before – the menu was unadulterated gastronomy. My langoustine and fennel mousse followed by roast beef and horseradish risotto was faultless – Mr Michelin, do hurry soon.  Breakfast (a foodie’s feast from fresh fruit smoothies to the full greasy job) is in the airy Edwardian restaurant. Kitted out in original Twenties art deco, it has chinoiserie hand-painted wall coverings featuring birds and butterflies. The considerably less expensive bistro is popular with children.

THE SPA TREATMENT
Tired of tennis? Raining?  The five candle-lit treatment rooms are havens of holistic therapy. Sauna, steam room, Jacuzzi, gymnasium, sun deck – you name it. I indulged in a hot stone bliss back massage and booster facial which left my skin glowing.

THE UPSIDE
The landscaped gardens in the castle grounds are a sophisticated playground for adults (and offspring). There is no time to waste – on offer is daily falconry, archery, skating, swimming (25 ft indoor pool perched high above the River Bovey – astonishingly chic), croquet, badminton, bee-keeping, art class, making sloe gin, boules, riding, golf (Sam Torrance often brings his family to stay), fly fishing, and tennis (Tim Henman is the Bovey Castle tennis captain). Phew.

THE DOWNSIDE
Nervously, I spotted a pack of children as we drove into the courtyard. Was my retreat weekend going to be ruined by raucous brats? As if by magic, I hardly saw them again – the adult-only restaurant and Bovey Rangers, the fully supervised children’s club, meant the little ones were scampering around on endless activities. Bovey Castle is very family-friendly - the parents were chilling out while their children had the time of their life.
THE EXTRAS
Playing lady of the manor, I went riding, Jane Austen-style across the rugged moors after watching the falcon display. Best of all, the numerous oak-panelled drawing rooms means that however many people are staying, guests never trip up over each other. It really is a pimped up (stately) home away from home – from the wellies lined up in the porch to the WiFi in my bedroom and pianist tinkering in the restaurant.

THE DETAILS
A castle room starts from £225 (includes breakfast and VAT)

Bovey Castle, North Bovey, Dartmoor National Park, Devon, TQ13 8RE
01647 445 000, www.boveycastle.com