Vivezza
Above: Vivezza in Pimlico
Launched & relaunched within the space of a few weeks, when Vivezza first opened (in 2007), it initially seemed to set itself apart as the casual option among umpteen smart Italians, but no sooner had the locals started piling in than pizzas were out & tablecloths in. A year on, it has had yet another makeover – and guess what? This time, it’s morphed into one of ‘The Chelsea Italians’, quite indistinguishable from the rest. So much for change, eh?
Don’t get us wrong: we love the classic Chelsea Italian. It’s just that we didn’t really need yet another one. Now that it’s here, we’re more than happy to add Vivezza to our long list of favourites – with a couple of reservations.
The first little problem we have with this place is to do with the space itself. There’s no denying the fact that the latest spruce-up has left the dining room more attractive – think comfortably upholstered seats, muted colours and the usual black and white photographs – but even the loveliest decor couldn’t hide the fact that this is an awkwardly narrow room, in which tables are always going to be a little bit too tightly spaced. But then you could say the snug layout fits in with the friendly feel of the place.
Our second – and last – complaint on this most recent visit was that one of the evening’s specials (a generously proportioned whole grilled Dover sole) arrived seriously undercooked. Everything else, from the service and wine to the rest of the food was just about perfect.
We kicked off with a fresh green asparagus soup and lightly dressed linguine with clams and cherry tomatoes, ahead of deliciously rare slices of sirloin steak on rocket salad with sides of crisp deep-fried courgettes and crunchy French beans. Great home-baked breads and a rich almond tart completed the package.
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