Paradise by Way of Kensal Green
Above: Paradise by Way of Kensal Green
You’d never think to look for paradise in Kensal Green but, as far as pubs go, this one is pretty close to utopia. Sure, the name is a bit presumptuous, but everything else about this place is thoroughly likeable.
For a start, it’s a great-looking joint. Set in a grand old building with tall ceilings and a wealth of period features, it sprawls across two sizeable floors, each with its own appeal.
At ground level is a bustling bar and atmospheric brasserie-style restaurant, the latter leading through to a sweet little patio garden. Upstairs, you’ll find a private dining room and a large function space with its own bar and stage, where regular music nights are held.
The owner has an eye for antiques as well as modern art and the decorative items on display across the building have been individually sourced. The result is a quirky but tasteful interior with plenty of character.
Food comes courtesy of a Marco Pierre White-trained chef and is, certainly by pub standards, quite exceptional. Indeed, it would probably even stand its own in one of MP’s restaurants.
We kicked off with a delicious crab cocktail made from fresh, flaky crab and served perfectly seasoned at just the right temperature. Washed down with a glass of chilled Champagne, it made for a wonderful start to the meal. And there were more treats to come.
A main course of steak arrived with textbook bearnaise and a generous pile of crunchy chips, the meat beautifully rare and meltingly tender. It was served alongside delicious vegetable sides and a Pinot Noir so good we were tempted to order cheese instead of pudding. In the end, we settled for a chocolate brownie, whose gooey richness made a perfect match for the wine – a great end to a top-notch meal.
by Annica Wainwright, an editor at Square Meal