Food reviews

L’Incontro

You’ve got to admire the team behind L’Incontro. Night after night, year after year, this place continues to draw the crowds, despite charging top dollar for cooking that really doesn’t stand out among that offered by the many other excellent Italians in these parts. Don’t get us wrong. We’re not suggesting the food here is bad, it just isn’t as spectacular – or, indeed, as generous – as the pricing would suggest.

Sure, the entirely cream and butter-free menu has many fans, particularly among weight-conscious ladies-who-lunch, and the often seafood-based specials are made with impeccably fresh ingredients, but we couldn’t help but find a few dishes quite underwhelming.

The delicate flavours of silky-soft beef carpaccio were overpowered by thick-cut parmesan and a big mound of peppery rocket, while an otherwise flawless crab pasta could have done with a pinch of salt. Much better was the starter of simply seared scallops, which came in a tasty jus, but we were also disappointed with the lobster spaghetti, in which the precious meat had been chopped up into tiny chunks.

So what is it that keeps people coming back? Well, we think it’s all about the atmosphere and service. With beautiful flower arrangements and a fresh, white colour scheme, this is a very attractive restaurant and staff treat regulars like kings.

As first-timers don’t quite get the same treatment and the process of becoming a regular can be a costly one, being able to call L’Incontro ‘your’ local Italian has become something of a status symbol. As such, it’s a great place for important business meals and first dates – as long as the person you’re taking is impressed by this sort of thing. Judging by the excited looks on most diners’ faces, many people are.