Food reviews

Kensington Place

Nervous jitters spread through Kensington last year, when D&D London (the group formerly known as Conran Restaurants) announced that it would be taking over this long-standing area favourite. As one of the pioneers of the ‘Modern British’ movement, Kensington Place has many fans and none of them wanted the legendary local changed.

But their worries appear to have been largely unfounded, for although there are plans to touch up the dining room this year, the new management has been careful to keep things as they were. The colourful décor and trademark buzz was certainly very much still in evidence on our late-autumn visit.

The cooking, critically, has been kept up to scratch and the menu is as deliciously seasonal as ever. The last crop of British peas was put to great use in a smashing starter of griddled scallops with pea purée and mint vinaigrette – a beautifully conceived dish that was both pretty to look at and bursting with fresh vibrant flavours. The well-drilled kitchen also timed the shellfish perfectly. Another winning dish was the whole roasted grouse with bread sauce and game chips, which just about epitomised everything that’s great about autumnal English cooking.

Supporting the seasonal repertoire is a well-thought-out list of brasserie classics, ranging from a proper fish soup with rouille, croutons and Gruyère to textbook steak béarnaise. Service, too, is well turned out and though clientele has aged, there’s still a youthful vibe about the bright, bustling space.

As long as D&D play their cards right, Kensington Place should remain a local institution for years to come. With those floor-to-ceiling windows and prime location between Notting Hill Gate and Kensington High Street, it will certainly continue to attract the ladies-who-lunch.

by Annica Wainwright, an editor at Square Meal