Food reviews

Chigago Rib Shack

The critics haven’t been kind to the Rib Shack. Scarcely had its famous revolving doors been fitted in their new location (the ill-fated site that previously housed Isola and the very short-lived Mocoto) before the scathing reviews started pouring in. But, then, so did the customers. Our weeknight dinner coincided with the big Chelsea-Man U game but not even an all-English Champions League final could keep the enthusiastic crowds away. So much for one out of five stars in Metro.

Say what you will about the new owners and their updated take on this 1980s favourite but these guys know how to launch a restaurant. Involving locals in a clever online campaign to ‘Bring the Shack Back’, they had a bulging reservations book long before the place had even opened. All they need to do now is retain the business – and guess what? We think they’ll succeed.

Sure, the food isn’t exactly gourmet, but then that isn’t what this place is about. People come here to have fun and it was certainly smiles all round on the night we visited.

Now split across two sizeable floors, the upper level shares space with a buzzy bar, while downstairs has semi-private booths for parties (yes, the staff still sing ‘Happy Birthday’ on request).

We loved the spicy buffalo wings but hated their synthetic blue cheese dip. Similarly, our Italian salad tasted of absolutely nothing, while a side order of macaroni cheese packed a flavourful punch (let’s not think about the calories in that one, though). Most importantly, the ribs were delicious: smoky, sweet and just as messy as you remember.

So would we go back? You bet – but maybe not for the full experience. With drinks priced more decently than food, we’ll probably settle for cold beers and ribs at the bar.