Food reviews

Resident

All Star Lanes

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Above: All Star Lanes

A great spot for a pre-Christmas get-together with colleagues or friends, this Bayswater newcomer is the second branch of the trendy chain that combines retro-chic American diner-style eating with ten-pin bowling. Although a smarter space than its Bloomsbury sibling, the new site shares the same relaxed atmosphere, fuelled by buzz from the bar and bowling lanes.

Just like its predecessor, it has been an instant success, so we’d recommend booking well in advance, particularly during the busy festive season. The best tables in the house are the six-seater booths overlooking the lanes, from where novices can catch up on techniques before having a go themselves, but if yours is a larger group, consider the private room, where you can eat, drink and bowl in your own tucked-away space, perhaps guided by the resident bowling pro.

So is it all about the game or is the food exciting too? Well, most of it is. The baby back ribs, for instance, were remarkable – so tender the meat literally fell off the bone at the slightest prod of the fork – and we also enjoyed creamy macaroni cheese and an accurately cooked steak, despite failing (as prompted by the menu but not the waiter) to choose a sauce to go with it.

The only real disappointment was a starter of crab claws, which arrived soggy and quite foul tasting – clearly defrosted rather than fresh – so, if our experience is anything to go by, you should probably steer clear of seafood. In fact: see it as your chance to pig out on burgers, chips and a side-order of chilli – you’ll work it all of on the lanes afterwards anyway.

Beware that the drinks list is very tempting and that alcohol obviously affects your aim so those who are serious about their bowling should probably stick to root beer.

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