Measure for measure

To really look the business, you have to invest in an exceptionally well-made suit. And not just any suit but a creation by one of the most famous tailors in the world. Theodore Harris visits Gieves & Hawkes on Sloane Square for some royal treatment

Above: Tailoring pick

‘Old suit? I’ll have you know this suit was cut by Hawkes of Savile Row.’ So said a rather grumpy Richard.E.Grant in iconic film, Withnail and I. But it was a very nice suit that he was wearing and enough to make me dream of the day that I could walk in to Hawkes and get one.

However Hawkes, which was founded in 1771 does not fly solo and actually merged with Gieves (founded in 1785), occupying the prestigious address of No 1 Savile Row. Gieves & Hawkes received its first Royal Warrant in 1809 and has held them ever since, with an unbroken record of service to successive monarchs from George III to HM The Queen.

I sadly, am not of royal descent however there was no reason for me not to share in the splendour of owning a suit fit for a king. Gieves & Hawkes occupy a second store in London, sitting grandly on the edges of Sloane Square, neighbouring Peter Jones and looking across at the beautiful windows of Tiffany & Co. They may have the best address on the famous Savile Row, but this one isn’t far behind.
The store offers a ready-to-wear collection, a personal tailoring service and a bespoke service and after walking into the shop, you only realise then that your time there will be an experience to remember.

Downstairs is a veritable library. Shelves filled with ‘books’ of material swatches, plunging leather sofas to sit and choose a fabric and a delightful ‘hush’ that allows you to make the decision in peace and quiet. Andrew Kebatta is the man to speak to when it comes to personal tailoring and along side manager Naresh Somaiya, they can help create the suit to end all suits.

The choice is quite incredible, with everything from pure cashmere to plain wool to even the ‘Diamond chip’ collection (yes, material flecked with real diamonds). I spent a prolonged period of time deciding which one would give me the look I was after, only to be given another book containing much more than a rainbow’s worth of colours for the lining. Grey suit, bright purple lining – I couldn’t go wrong.
Being measured is a strange experience. My mother’s words were ringing in my ears, ‘don’t slouch, wear your trousers up round your waist’ after Naresh told me to stand straight and asked me if I always wore my trousers on my hips. As quick as a flash, Naresh had the tape measure extended and shortened accordingly, measurements called out which Andrew duly recorded. When I asked about alterations that might need to be done they both flashed toothy smiles as if to say ‘This is Gieves & Hawkes. Precision is our middle name.’

And then the questions came which I never thought I would be asked. These are the things that you take for granted. Two breast pockets or one? Inside pen pocket, outside breast pocket. Double pleats, single pleats or flat front for the trousers? Slanted trouser pockets, brace buttons, mitred angle button, belt hoops – the list goes on. And having answered the questions, with some excellent recommendations from Andrew and Naresh, examples being shown to me from ready-made items in the shop, I realised the immense talent and craft that goes into creating something so timeless and worn by millions.

So whether it is a wedding you are attending, a landmark birthday or for every day use, a trip to Gieves & Hawkes on Sloane Square could be the best way to spoil yourself. And something tells me that, like Withnail, I will have this suit for a very long time. And it will be my old suit from Gieves & Hawkes of Savile Row.
Gieves & Hawkes, 33 Sloane Square, SW1W 8AQ, 020 7730 1777, www.gievesandhawkes.com